Lee Bell asked:


There are few cities in the United States that are as welcoming to horses and their owners as Dallas. The variety of boarding facilities, training opportunities, horse shows and rodeos all make Dallas one of the most horse-friendly places around.

One example of the excellence in Dallas is the Park Lane Equestrian Center. This is hard to believe, but part of the facility called the Park Lane Ranch includes over 18,000 square feet of climate-controlled riding space! There is just as much outdoors as well, but with that kind of opportunity available to you, you can ride all year long! Making sure that their space appeals to everyone in the family, the center also offers volleyball, softball, golf, a driving range and a petting zoo. Some of the other local boarding stables include Rocking M Stables, the Jo Labec Riding Stables and the White Rock Stables. If you enjoy polo, the Dallas Polo Club hosts a variety of events every year.

There are also plenty of chances to purchase horses as well. The Chappie Stout Horse Sales, Quality Thoroughbred, Caballistas Equine Solutions and Mesquite Horse Sale are just a few of the better known breeders. Other facilities that offer several annual shows include the Las Colinas Equestrian Center. The Dallas Hunter Jumper Show and the Dallas Harvest Horse Show are exceptional because all proceeds go to providing therapeutic riding to disabled children and adults in the community. Some of these organizations include Riding Unlimited and Equest.

Texas was Made for Rodeos

Believe it or not, there is a huge rodeo that happens just fifteen minutes outside of the downtown area. The Mesquite Rodeo has bull riding, calf roping and barrel racing. If you head over to Fort Worth you can attend the Cowtown Coliseum, which is home to the very first indoor rodeo. The nice thing about this rodeo is that they have one every week, which means that your family can regularly enjoy the excitement of attending a rodeo. If you want to attend one of the largest rodeos in Texas, you can go to the Fort Worth Stock Show and Rodeo. This event has hundreds of contestants and performers and really is something to see. This is such a large event that there is also a parade that goes to the downtown area of Fort Worth as well as other types of activities that are all meant to embrace the heritage of Texas.

Fort Worth is also home to plenty of boarding stables, such as the Cartwright Ranch and Stables, the Curragh Equestrian Center, the Rafter P Bar Ranch and Rodeo, the Eagle Mountain Equestrian Center, the M Terry Stables and the Silver Creak Ranch. In exceptional facilities like these, you can rest easy knowing that your horses are well cared for.

Be Around Others Who Share Your Interests

An interesting way to getaway and experience the Texas wilderness is to visit one of the dude ranches in this area. This is a great way to see history come to life. There is horseback riding in addition to other forms of entertainment. Some of the better-known dude ranches include the Austin Ranch, Beaumont Ranch, the Bill Bates Cowboy Ranch and Brentlinger Farm. Both Dallas and Fort Worth have stayed true to their equestrian heritage and have kept traditions like rodeos, ranches, stables and horse farms alive and well. The best was to see Texas is still on horseback.



thousand oaks horse property

anonymous asked:


Just like us, our horses get stressed. Stress seems to be an inevitable part of modern life and we can even pass on such feelings and problems to our pets and animal companions. In the same way when our animals become stressed we know it and it affects our riding and enjoyment.

But how damaging really is tension and anxiety. How can we avoid it and why is it important for animals as well as people?

Stress is a natural response of the body to something that threatens it whether that threat is mental or a physical accident or a disease. When the body senses that something bad may happen to it, cells release chemicals that start to protect the body from what ‘might happen’. This threat to the body might be a sudden change in the weather, a new horse in the field that might cause a fight, some change to management regime or maybe the loss of a companion in the same field. Some of the chemicals that the body releases in such situations are natural steroids which calm damage in the body down whether that damage occurs in the mind or the muscles. Other chemicals start to prepare the body for taking evasive action i.e. running away quickly.

So we can see that stress is actually a natural state of the body. If we or our horses did not get worried or stressed about things to some degree we would be much more likely to get into trouble in difficult or dangerous situations. The trouble comes however when stress continues for long periods of time without us being able to get away from what is causing it. Then the natural chemicals in the body that are supposed to protect the body actually start having negative effects. The body steroid hormones start weakening the immune system, body chemicals make us ‘revved up’ in order to escape the stress and cannot do so and by products of all this chemical activity called ‘free radicals’ start damaging the cells and make us grow older more quickly. It is a bit like ‘revving up’ an engine for a long period without going anywhere. Of course it is not good for the engine after a while. Recent studies show that short periods of stress are actually good for the body because the healing process of the body afterwards gives it a lift. If a person has no occasional challenge to make them think more acutely the brain degenerates and becomes less able to function well.

So what does all this mean for horses? It means that if your horse is locked up in a stable for prolonged periods and does not like this it can get stressed and this damages its health. It means that horses that loose their companions and are then left by themselves get ill eventually. It means that if a horse is constantly worried about a heavy competition schedule and non-stop traveling it is likely to get ill relatively easily.

How do we prevent the longer type of stress causing damage to our horses? The key is of course good management and an understanding of how a horses mind works. For many people this is not natural and it is worth reading up on how horses behave in the wild and in domestication and trying to fit in more with what a horse is happy with. For example most people are well aware that horses like to be fed at regular times during the day and get stressed out if regimes are upset. If a horse never knows when its feed is coming it is a constant state of anxiety.

When a horse has been stressed for prolonged periods of time sometimes extra help is needed. Bad experiences can affect a horse strongly for the rest of his or her life - just like a person. In the same way a period of one month’s stress because of an inability to get on with another horse in the same field may take several weeks to get over after normality has returned and this is where herbs can fit in nicely.

Many herbs are great at tackling stress and help animals adapt to stressful situations. The most important of these are called ‘Adaptogens’ (help bodies adapt). Examples of such plants are Indian and chinese ginsengs, Astragalus and even tumeric. Other plants have strong antioxidant properties which help get rid of toxic free radicals which are releases at times of stress. Most people think of different types of food, vitamins and minerals as being the only sources of antioxidants but many herbs are specifically more powerful than anything else at providing this form of protection.

So when horses and people are stressed the strategic use of herbal mixes to reduce stress can make an enormous difference. Rather than reaching for the diazepam a quick drink of a suitable herbal drink can get you back on the right track in an hour or two when otherwise you might be uptight for days. In the same way for horses the careful use of a good herb blend can help your horse recover quickly from a difficult situation or cope with stress more easily until you are able to remove the underlying cause.



JOAN

Lydia V Kelly asked:


When you have horses for sale you will inevitably have clients out to see your horse in person. If you have not had much experience in buying and selling horses, it is hard to know how best to present your horse to bring out his best characteristics for the clients.

The first thing to keep in mind is that first impressions can may or break a sale. Take a look at your barn. Is it clean and presentable? Are the stalls cleaned out, the aisle raked or swept, and the paddocks well fenced and clear of dangerous obstacles? If not you may need to upgrade your barn. From some facilities this can be a simple clean-up job. Other places are a lost cause and need lots of time and money to make them presentable. If this is the case you might want to look into boarding your sales horse at a local stable that has a good standard of care.

Assuming that your facility is in good shape you next need to consider your horse. While you can’t help it if your horse is shaggy in the winter, but whether sleek coated or extra hairy your horse should be groomed to a shine. If he is especially dusty but it is too cold for a bath you can hot towel the coat rubbing out the worst of the dirt. Excess hairs should be trimmed so that they are tidy. If your horse has white markings they should be scrubbed so that any stains are taken out. If the weather is nice the best idea is to give your horse a thorough bath to show him off the best.

Depending on your horse’s breed and discipline, you should ensure that your horse looks well suited to his job. If your horse is a show prospect he should look as though he could go to a show tomorrow. If he is a pleasure horse he should be clean and well trimmed, but he should not look as though he is ring-ready. Know your horse’s discipline and groom accordingly.

If your horse is a baby or cannot be ridden, make sure there is a free arena or paddock that the buyers can watch your horse move freely in. If your horse is started under saddle be sure to have a safe, fenced area in which the buyer can try the horse. Any tack, equipment, halters and brushes should be clean and in good repair. Make sure that there is someone who can ride your horse for the client before they try him as they will want to see him go under saddle.

For horses who are experienced in the ring or who have accomplishments under their belts it is a good idea to have an album of photographs or a video available to show the buyers when they arrive. For homebreds it is a good idea to have photos of the sire and dam if they are not available to be seen on property.

When the buyers arrive your horse should be in its stall, well groomed and ready to show. Your tack should be near at hand so you don’t need to waste time trying to find it. Most buyers will want to see the horse without tack first, then under saddle. If your horse is hot and needs to be longed or ridden before the buyer arrives, spend time well in advance preparing him, then bring him back into the barn to meet the clients. Be honest with them about your preparation of the horse, to do otherwise is dishonest and could lead to disaster if the client buys the horse and becomes injured because they did not know what the horse was really like.

Take your time with the clients, but be aware that they may have other place to go and be on a time limit. If they are interested go ahead and show them your other horses, but many buyers are focused on the horse they are looking at and have no desire to see the rest of the farm.

By presenting your farm and your horse at their best you increase the chance that the buyer will not only want to purchase your horse, but that they will be willing to pay the price you are asking. A poorly groomed horse at an unkempt facility only makes buyers want to dicker with the price and may completely turn them off before they even truly look at the horse. Taking good care of your horse and your clients will give you the best chance for a successful sale.



MARLON

Lydia K Kelly asked:


There are many types of bedding common to horse farms across North America. At each barn you will see owners that swear by their bedding type, and assert that it is far better than anything else. But, how can you tell which bedding really is best?

When choosing what to use as bedding, there are several factors to consider. These include the material, its availability, cost, ease of cleaning, disposal and the existing flooring. Because every barn is different, every barn owner makes a different decision when it comes to the best bedding.

Material

The most common types of bedding are shavings and straw. Shavings come in every grade from sawdust to large, thick flakes. While sawdust is more absorbent, it is dusty and not as good for the lungs. Large flake shavings are a lot more expensive, but are a healthier alternative. Straw is the leftover stalks of various grains, usually oats, barley or wheat.. Some straw can be coarse or even prickly, while other types are soft and absorbent. Some horses like to eat straw.

Less common bedding choices include peat moss, processed wood and processed newspaper. All three are more expensive, but have some advantages. Peat moss is very heavy, but is super absorbent and hypoallergenic. Processed wood and newspaper is also very absorbent and hypoallergenic, and also don’t tend to stain the coat. They tend to be very easy to clean, and often are quick to compost.

Cost

Whether we like it or not, cost is always a factor when selecting bedding. It can be hard to justify spending a lot of money just to toss it out the next day. Sawdust is generally the least expensive, usually delivered in bulk. Straw is next on the list, but can be a bit harder to work with. Bagged shavings are fairly expensive, but are a popular choice as they tend to be easy to manage and are nice and fluffy. Peat moss and processed wood or paper are the most expensive, but you also use a lot less of them. Set up costs are high, but long-term they can save money.

Ease of Cleaning

A lot of this is personal preference. There are people who swear by shavings, while others swear by straw. Shavings are generally lighter to handle, and it is easy to remove wet spots and droppings from them. Straw tends to be heavier and can get very soggy. Straw also tends to harbor more odor than shavings. Peat moss is very hard to clean, is heavy, weighing a ton when wet, and tends to pack. Processed wood and paper are very easy to clean, but can be more work to replenish. Often they need to be soaked in water for several hours before spreading, adding to the time required for rebedding stalls.

Disposal

Straw is the easiest bedding to dispose of, especially if you are in an area where you do not have a lot of property. Often mushroom producers will send out a truck to pick up your straw bedding, thus removing it from your farm and taking care of the problem. Straw decomposes well, and can be used or sold as garden manure. Shavings are usually more difficult. Some types of shavings are fairly acidic, and may take a while to decompose. Most mushroom men do not like to use shavings for their produce. Peat moss decomposes quickly, as does processed wood and paper.

Flooring

While the flooring you have may not affect the type of bedding you use, it does affect how much of that bedding you will need. Concrete and asphalt floors are very hard and require deep bedding. Dirt floors are better, and require a bit less bedding, but you still should bed deeply. Rubber mats are a wonderful flooring choice, and greatly reduce the amount of bedding you require. There are even some types of mats that are thick enough to require virtually no bedding at all.

Whatever bedding you choose, it is essential to clean your stalls daily, removing all urine and manure. Keeping your barn clean helps keep your horses healthy, and keeps the odor under control.



EFREN

Lydia K Kelly asked:


When your horse turns two, you can finally consider beginning his training to be a riding horse. Assuming that he already knows the basics of being led and tied, he is now mature enough to handle light work, and real training.

It is possible to begin training your two-year-old to longe. While it may seem simple, longing can be quite hard on a young horse’s joints, so be careful not to use too small a circle, or to longe for an extended amount of time. Instead, use short sessions, starting at a walk, and slowly progressing to trot work. Most two-year-olds are not yet balanced enough to manage a canter on a longe line, so it is better to avoid canter work for now.

As you teach your youngster voice commands, consider teaching him to free longe. As a yearling, it was more of a game, but by two, you should be able to start asking for specific transitions while free. If you are using a decent sized arena, you can also begin asking for some canter work. Avoid cantering in small round pens if possible as it is too hard on a baby’s joints.

Another good idea is to introduce your two-year-old to tack. He can learn to wear a saddle and bridle without too much difficulty. Take your time introducing new equipment, and make sure to put it on securely so that it does not slip or irritate him. Free longing and longing in tack is a great way to get him used to working with a saddle and bridle.

Two year olds are full of energy and need to keep their minds busy. Another great way to prepare your horse for being ridden is to teach him how to long line. Long lining is when you use two long lines, or reins, so that you can drive your horse from behind or from the middle of a circle, so that he learns basic rein aids. This will set you well ahead of the game when it comes to backing him when he is three.

Continue taking your youngster for walks around the property and taking him out to shows for visits. These are great ways to accustom him to going new places and to learn to trust you no matter where he is.

It is best to leave backing your horse until he is three years old. Many horses are started under saddle at two, and do fine, but it is easy to go too far too fast when you start that young. If you can’t resist getting on his back, stick to riding at a walk, and keep the sessions short.

Two-year-olds are still very young, and need a lot of turnout and free time. Don’t over work him, or he could become sour. He will have plenty of years of hard work ahead of him. Let him enjoy his youth as much as possible.



AURELIO

Lydia K Kelly asked:


When attending a show it is important that your horse look its best. Adding a few finishing touches can make all the difference between a nice looking horse, and an animal that wins the class.

Let’s start by assuming that your horse has been thoroughly bathed before the show. Braiding has been arranged, and your tack is clean are ready for use.

To get the best shine on your horse, you will want to give him a thorough grooming. While bathing is great for getting out the dirt, the coat can often use some extra help to keep its shine. While your horse is still damp, take a large saddle pad and place it over its back. Then spray a light coating of show sheen over the coat where you will not be placing tack. Never spray under the saddle area, or where you need tack to stay snug.

While show sheen may seem a quick fix, it has many properties that make it very useful. It will increase the shine in your horse’s coat, but more importantly, it will help repel dust.

Be sure not to show sheen the mane if you plan on having it braided, and not to show sheen above the end of the dock on the tail. Show sheen is very slippery and will make braiding next to impossible.

If your horse has white hooves, or if the hooves are rough or uneven, try taking some mid-grade sandpaper and lightly sanding the hooves. You can find sandpaper on hard foam blocks that are easier to handle than plain paper. While sanding the hooves may sound a bit odd, as long as you don’t do it too often and only use it to smooth the surface layer and remove stains, it will not hurt your horse.

When finished, apply a layer of clear hoof polish to the hooves to keep them shiny. Black hoof polish can look nice on a horse with no white and black legs, but looks silly on horses with brown legs or socks. Stick to clear polish on those horses. Some people prefer to use oil when the horse goes in the ring, but this tends to be sticky and the dirt quickly dulls the hoof.

If you use hoof polish, be sure to apply a moisturizer to the hoof after the show. The polish can dry the hoof out. If you show a lot, you might want to avoid using polish at every show, reserving it for the bigger events.

For horses with white socks and stockings, it can be next to impossible to get them clean. A quick trick is to buy corn starch and rub it into the whites before the show. The corn starch will make the whites glow, and any excess will quickly be shaken off as the horse takes a few steps. Be sure that any polish is fully dry before adding corn starch, or it will stick.

Clipping off the whiskers on the muzzle really tidies the face. Nothing makes a horse look like a nag more quickly than a shaggy muzzle. You can use scissors to trim the hair around the ears too, but avoid clipping them out if you can, as the hair inside the ears is important for protection against flies.

If you like the sleek, shiny look on the face, try using Brilcream instead of baby oil. This wonderful men’s hair product creates a natural shine that sets off your horse without making him look oily. It only takes a little bit to add polish to your horse’s face.

Finally, if your horse has scars that shine, or otherwise look unpleasant, try using a bit of shoe polish to cover them up. This will blend them in, while still looking natural.



DEL

Lydia V Kelly asked:


Taking riding lessons is a great way to introduce yourself to the world of horses. But before you rush out to the first stables listed in the classifieds section there are a few things you should know.

Many stables specialize in riding lessons. These riding schools have many school horses and several instructors who teach. Other farms have a single coach, often the barn owner, who teaches lessons on a few select horses from her barn. Both types of farms have their benefits.

Riding schools are generally lower in cost than smaller barns. They usually offer group lessons where up to six horses and riders learn together in hour-long lessons. Many schools also offer semi-private and private lessons at higher rates.

With a variety of horses available to ride you get a chance to see what different horses are like and gain a range of experience riding them. Usually there are at least two instructors, often more. You can sometimes try different coaches until you find one that works well with you, but not all schools give you that option.

Riding schools tend to be less personal than smaller stables. The lessons are generalized to meet the needs of the group, so the instructor often cannot work with specific issues that an individual rider may be having.

In the long run most riding schools are limited to lower level riders. As riders develop their skills they may need to move on to private coaching and may need to lease or purchase their own horse.

Smaller barns usually only hove one coach. That coach often only teaches private or semi-private lessons, often because there are not enough school horses available for larger groups.

With only a couple of horses available for lessons the student gets less selection. On the other hand there is a chance to get to know the horse you are riding and gain a rapport with that horse. The horse is often well trained and tends to have the ability to go further than the basics. If that horse does not have that level of ability the owner may have another horse that will take her riders into higher level riding.

Small barns are also more personal and inviting. This can be great for riders with confidence issues. The only difficulty is that when the rider/coach dynamic does not work there is no secondary coach to try instead.

When checking out a barn for lessons take a good look around the property. The horses should be well groomed and in good weight. While they should not be fat, they also should not have their ribs showing. There should be signs that the horses get lots of turn-out and are not stuck standing in a stall all day.

The barn should be clean with clearly designated areas for keeping tack and for grooming horses. Pitchforks and other farm implements should be stored neatly away where they are not likely to be knocked over by a passing horse.

The arena should be clear of dangerous obstacles and be well fenced. A mounting block should be available to help riders get on tall horses. The footing should be loose and around 3-4″ deep.

Be sure to take the time to meet your instructor, or if that is not possible in advance of a lesson ask if you could take a trial lesson to get to know the coach before committing to a series of lessons. Many barns ask that you pay for up to 10 lessons at a time. This is normal, but you should be able to at least meet the coach before committing. The lessons are generally not refundable, so you want to be sure that you are happy with the person you will be learning from.

If you do start lessons at one farm and find over time that it doesn’t work out, don’t be afraid to look around to find a barn that better suits your needs. Everyone is different and each barn suits its own type of people.

Above all make sure that you find a farm you are comfortable at, and where you feel safe. Riding lessons should be fun, not stressful. So take your time, find the right barn and enjoy your introduction to the world of horses.



CHAUNCEY

Riley Hendersen asked:


You are now thinking-what are your crazy? Why would anyone purchase insurance on the average horse? You know that the special thoroughbreds, Arabian, and other special breeds are covered but why should you spend the money for your own horse?

Well, it is no longer an issue for the very wealthy owners and breeders. If medical attention or surgery is needed, this can make a difference between saving your horse’s life or putting them down. And, who really wants to sacrifice their pet just because they can not afford to pay the veterinarian?

If you own a horse of any breed, you know that it is a major financial investment.

You not only pay money to purchase him, but the boarding and upkeep for this is very expensive and people just want to protect something that they love. There are a few basic types of coverage you can purchase; they are mortality and major medical-these are comparable to life and health insurance for people.

Now that you realize that you should purchase insurance for your horse, what kind should you get? As with anything, there are an unlimited number of policies available that cover many different things. Some of the basics you will want to consider when getting coverage are major medical and surgical, death, loss of use, and equipment. You are thinking-what, all of this? Well, “Yes.” Each of these is an investment you have made and you want to be adequately reimbursed if anything should happen.

If you own or operate a stable, you need even more coverage that would include: liability for trainers, farm owners and guests; property protection; reproduction (stallion and mare fertility versus infertility); and transport of animals.

Usually, a horse owner received money from mortality insurance if the horse dies. Depending on the details in the policy, the owner may receive a full or partial payment based on the value of the animal. A medical and surgical policy will cover costs directly related to the treatment of an injury or illness.

If you are not sure what horse insurance to purchase, find an insurance agent that specializes in horse insurance. They should answer your questions and explain the terms and benefits described in the plan.

It is their job to sell you and other people horse insurance-so, they want to make sure that they do their job correctly. Their reputation can be made or ruined based on how they work with their clients who want to make this purchase for their animals. Just remember, that the agent you select should have experience in the equine arena.

Whether you decide to work with a capable agent or to do the research yourself on the internet, remember what is at stake here. If you do not get the right health insurance for your horse, there may come a time when you truly regret it. Saving a few dollars here and there might make a major different in the amount of coverage you have in the event of a major illness or surgery.



AURELIO

Lydia K Kelly asked:


When a client is coming out to look at a horse that is for sale, it is very important to make a good first impression. Often the first impression is what makes or breaks a sale.

Before a client comes to your farm, consider the general upkeep of your property. Has the lawn been mowed? Are your fences in good repair? Is there a decent place to park? A farm that has been maintained immediately speaks of a place that offers quality care for its animals.

Take a look inside your barn. Are the lights working? Are the crossties in good repair? Are the stalls clean and the aisle raked or swept? Is the tack room tidy? All these little things add up to make your barn look like a nice facility. It isn’t how fancy a place is that counts. It is how clean and tidy things are kept.

Now look out into the paddocks at your horses. Are the horses in reasonable flesh? Have they been groomed recently, or are they covered in mud and sweat? Is there junk lying around your fields? Are the fences well maintained? All of this and more will catch your buyers’ eye as they arrive.

When preparing the horse for inspection, consider his appearance. If at all possible give him a bath. Make sure that his feet have been trimmed, and that his mane is pulled. Clip off his whiskers and tidy his bridle path. Give him a clean halter that is in good repair, even if you need to temporarily steal it off another horse.

You tack should be clean. The saddle pad should be fresh, and any boots or bandages mud and dirt-free. Everything should be near-at-hand and fitted to your horse before the clients arrive.

When you clients arrive, greet them pleasantly, and take them to see you horse in his stall. Halter him in front of them, and bring him out to the crossties so that they can see what he is like to tack up. While he should have been groomed ahead of time, you might want to dust him off in front of the client so that they see what he is like to groom.

Tack up your horse, and take him to the arena to work. If he needs to be longed, go ahead and longe him, but if he’s high energy and needs a long longe session, finish it before the clients arrive, telling them that you have done so. Be sure that either you or someone you know gets on the horse first. The client will want to see him go, and will be thankful to know that he will not explode or otherwise be dangerous to ride. When the client rides, be quiet and respectful, assisting with jumps or other equipment as needed.

Finally, when finished, give the client the opportunity to ask any questions. If your horse is hot, and needs cooling out, you might want to have someone you know help out and walk the horse for you, so that you are free to talk with the clients.

The better their experience at your farm is, the higher the chance that they will want to come back. While your horse might not be quite what they are looking for, they will likely be happy to come again to look at another horse, should you have something else for sale. They will also likely pass on the information about your horse to others they know.

No matter the final result, keep things positive and finish things off on a good note. The horse world is a very small place, and word travels fast.



ALEXANDER

Benjamin Wise asked:


When looking for stabling what is important to consider is the actual structure and environment of the stable. The best way to choose a stable for your horse is to know some basic facts and then to actually visit stable in your area to get a comparison.

There are basic items that every stable horse should have. When visiting a yard keep these items in mind to ensure that your horse will be well cared for. A neglected stable horse can result in a costly veterinarian bill.

From the moment you drive into a yard, your eyes should be on the lookout.

What does the fencing look like? Is it well maintained and safe for a horse?

Is the property and fields securely gated?

Are the horses content in the fields or are there too many horses in one field?

When you enter a yard is your presence noted? Is there some one to assist you or some one taking care of the horses? It is advisable to call before visiting a yard especially if you visit during lunch when most of the staff may not be in the yard.

What do the stables look like?

Are they well maintained with no loose nails, broken doors, uneven and badly cracked surfaces? Is the stable a comfortable size for your horse?

Do the stables have good ventilation and fresh air circulating?

Are the stables well lit with natural light and or artificial light?

Does every stable offer clean fresh water?

Do the horses have hay in the stable?

What does the floor of the stable look like?

Is there rubber matting, straw, dirt or sawdust for the floor? Does the floor drain well? Are the stable beds cleaned out regularly? A good sign if anything else is the smell. A well kept yard does not have a strong smell of ammonia (urine).

What do the horses in the various stables look like? Are they shaggy and unkempt or are they groomed? What are the horses doing – the behavior of the stabled horses is a clear sign of what type of stable environment you are looking at. An unhappy horse will most likely be chewing wood, box walking, kicking, wind-sucking amongst other vices.

Vices are however not the only way to tell a bad stable from a good one. Some horses may have developed the vice elsewhere, so concern yourself if a number of horses are all showing signs of agitation and boredom.

When looking for a stable your horses comfort should come first. He does not need a state of the art tack room or huge covered outdoor arena. He needs basics and it is trusting you to supply them.



ERNEST